I reluctantly tuned in to Heston’s Victorian Feast for what I feared was as contrived a programming idea as could conceivably be conceived.
I was wrong. This was vintage TV. The fact that he laughed in the face of food poisoning in one section of the show was quirkily ironic; as 400 of his devotees were probably viewing it with their arses on the pan. But fret not, nobody died at the Fat Duck last week.
His idea was to create a modern day Victorian banquet, drawing extensively from the fictitious foods of Alice in Wonderland but what made the programme sparkle was its delicious denouement. An Absinthe jelly, (Absinth one moment, Absanth the next; the continuity people were probably having Mock Turtles listening to him) huge and wobbly with the wobble attained with the aid of four vibrators – themselves a Victorian invention.
My 14 year old son, Tom, was quite amused that they had been invented to treat hysteria and that doctors regularly masturbated their patients to relieve said ailment. Not exactly what we’d expected from a cookery programme.
Good on ya Heston.
The ultimate out-take of this programme? I really want to eat at the Fat Duck.